🇻🇳Hanoi
A thousand-year-old capital where motorbikes swarm narrow Old Quarter streets, French colonial villas sit beside pagodas, and plastic stools spill onto the sidewalk for the country's best bowl of pho.
In photos
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Quick facts
Money & what things cost
This is still largely a cash economy at the street level — food stalls, markets, and taxis often expect cash, while hotels, malls, and nicer restaurants take cards. ATMs are everywhere but often cap withdrawals at 2,000,000–3,000,000₫ with a fee per transaction; a travel card that refunds ATM fees pays for itself fast. Bargaining is expected at markets (not in shops with posted prices) — start around half the asking price and meet in the middle.
What locals earn
| Average monthly salary (Hanoi) | ≈ $350–450 | gross; significantly lower in rural areas, higher in skilled/foreign-facing jobs |
| Minimum wage (Region I, incl. Hanoi) | ≈ $190/month | government-set regional minimum, varies by zone across the country |
Food & drink
| Item | Local price | ≈ USD |
|---|---|---|
| Bowl of pho or bun cha from a street stall | 30,000–50,000₫ | $1.20–2.00 |
| Casual restaurant meal, per person | 80,000–150,000₫ | $3.00–6.00 |
| Mid-range restaurant dinner, per person | 250,000–500,000₫ | $10–20 |
| Vietnamese coffee (ca phe sua da) | 20,000–35,000₫ | $0.80–1.40 |
| Bia hoi (local draft beer) | 8,000–15,000₫ | $0.30–0.60 |
Transport
| Item | Local price | ≈ USD |
|---|---|---|
| City bus ride | 7,000–9,000₫ | $0.30 |
| Grab (ride-hailing app) motorbike, short trip | 15,000–30,000₫ | $0.60–1.20 |
| Grab car, across town | 60,000–120,000₫ | $2.50–5.00 |
| Noi Bai Airport → Old Quarter, taxi/Grab | 300,000–400,000₫ | $12–16 |
Where to sleep & what it costs
| Tier | Per night | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Hostel dorm | $5.00–10 | Concentrated in and around the Old Quarter |
| Budget hotel | $15–30 | Old Quarter and French Quarter both have strong budget options |
| Mid-range hotel | $30–60 | Often includes breakfast and sometimes a rooftop pool |
| Luxury | $120+ | French Quarter and lakeside properties concentrate the top end |
Getting around
- From the airport
- Noi Bai International Airport is about 45 minutes from the Old Quarter — Grab or a metered taxi (agree on the fare or insist on the meter) runs 300,000–400,000₫; the Route 86 airport bus is a cheaper (~35,000₫) but slower option.
- Walking
- The Old Quarter is compact and walkable, though sidewalks are often used for parking or vending, pushing pedestrians onto the street alongside motorbike traffic.
- Grab (ride-hailing app)
- The easiest and safest way to get around — install the app before arrival; it works for both cars and motorbike taxis and avoids fare negotiation entirely.
- Crossing the street
- There's a real technique to it: walk at a slow, steady, predictable pace and let motorbikes flow around you — stopping suddenly or running is what actually causes accidents.
- Motorbike rental
- Common among longer-term travelers but genuinely risky for first-timers unfamiliar with the traffic patterns — an international driving permit is technically required, and travel insurance often excludes claims without one.
Neighborhoods to stay in
- Old Quarter
- The classic first-timer base — chaotic, atmospheric, walking distance to Hoan Kiem Lake and most sights, though noisy.
- French Quarter
- Wider tree-lined boulevards, colonial architecture, quieter, still close to the center.
- Tay Ho (West Lake)
- Leafy, more residential, popular with expats, good cafes — a calmer base a short Grab ride from downtown.
- Ba Dinh
- Near Ho Chi Minh's Mausoleum and the government quarter, quieter and more spread out.
Tipping & etiquette
- Remove shoes before entering someone's home, and at some pagodas and temples — watch for shoe piles at the entrance as a cue.
- Dress modestly at temples and pagodas — shoulders and knees covered is a safe default.
- Street food stools and low tables are part of the culture, not a sign of a lesser restaurant — some of the best food in the city is served this way.
- Losing your temper or raising your voice in a disagreement causes both parties to lose face and rarely helps resolve anything — staying calm gets better results.
- Motorbike horns are used constantly as a 'I'm here, I'm passing' signal rather than aggression — it sounds chaotic but is a normal part of the traffic flow.
Safety & common scams
Hanoi is generally safe, including at night, with violent crime against tourists rare. The main real risks are traffic (crossing streets, riding as a passenger) and petty theft (bag-snatching from motorbikes, pickpocketing in crowded markets) — keep bags across the body and away from the curb when walking.
Scams to know
- Inflated taxi meters or 'broken' meters — stick to reputable companies (Mai Linh, Vinasun) or use Grab, which fixes the price upfront.
- Cyclo or motorbike drivers quoting one price then demanding more on arrival — agree on the exact fare and destination before getting in, or just use Grab.
- Street vendors placing goods (like a shoulder pole of fruit) on tourists for a 'free' photo, then demanding payment — politely but firmly decline if you don't want to pay.
- Currency confusion — with so many zeros in the dong, double-check change, especially at night; a 10,000₫ note and a 100,000₫ note look similar at a glance.
Emergency numbers: 113 (police), 114 (fire), 115 (ambulance)
Phone & internet
Cheap and easy — a tourist SIM or eSIM (Viettel, Mobifone, or Vinaphone) with several GB of data costs $3.00–8.00 for a couple of weeks, available at the airport or phone shops citywide. Coverage is strong throughout the city and most of the country, including rural areas.
First-timer FAQs
Do I need a visa?
Many nationalities can get a 45-day e-visa online in advance (apply a few days ahead at the official Vietnamese immigration portal), and a growing list of countries get short visa-free stays — check current rules for your passport before booking, since requirements have changed several times in recent years.
How many days do I need?
Two to three days covers the Old Quarter, Hoan Kiem Lake, and a museum or two at a relaxed pace; many visitors use Hanoi as a base for a Ha Long Bay overnight cruise, which adds a day or two.
Is the traffic really as crazy as people say?
Yes, especially in the Old Quarter — but it flows in a predictable rhythm once you get used to it, and millions of locals navigate it daily without major incident. Crossing slowly and steadily is the key skill to learn.
Can I drink the tap water?
No — stick to bottled or filtered water; most hotels provide free bottled water, and ice in reputable restaurants is generally made from filtered water and considered safe.
Is Hanoi or Ho Chi Minh City a better first stop?
Neither is objectively better — Hanoi has more historic character and easier access to Ha Long Bay and the north; Ho Chi Minh City is bigger, more modern, and better positioned for the Mekong Delta and south. Many first-timers do both in one trip.