🇨🇳Guilin
The karst-mountain scenery on the back of the ¥20 note — a slower, greener corner of China built around the Li River and the backpacker village of Yangshuo.
In photos
Quick facts
Money & what things cost
Guilin and Yangshuo run on Alipay and WeChat Pay like the rest of China, both usable with foreign cards in tourist mode — though Yangshuo's backpacker economy also still sees more cash and even the occasional card reader than most Chinese cities, a holdover from its long history as a foreign-tourist hub. A VPN is worth setting up before you land, since Google, WhatsApp, and Instagram are blocked here as everywhere in mainland China.
What locals earn
| Average monthly salary (Guilin, urban) | ≈ ¥5,600 ($780) | one of the lower urban averages among major tourist cities, reflecting a tourism- and agriculture-based economy rather than heavy industry |
| Typical entry-level salary | ≈ ¥3,200–4,500 ($445–625) | |
| Minimum wage (Guangxi region) | ¥1,690/month (≈ $235) |
Food & drink
| Item | Local price | ≈ USD |
|---|---|---|
| Guilin rice noodles (mifen), a bowl | ¥8–15 | $1.10–2.10 |
| Beer fish (啤酒鱼), Yangshuo specialty, shared | ¥60–120 | $8.35–17 |
| Sit-down restaurant, per person | ¥30–65 | $4.15–9.00 |
| Western-style café meal (common in Yangshuo) | ¥35–70 | $4.85–9.70 |
| Coffee | ¥15–28 | $2.10–3.90 |
| Local beer at a bar | ¥8–20 | $1.10–2.80 |
Transport
| Item | Local price | ≈ USD |
|---|---|---|
| City bus ride | ¥1–2 | $0.15–0.30 |
| Didi (ride-hail) across town | ¥12–25 | $1.65–3.50 |
| Bus, Guilin to Yangshuo (~1 hour) | ¥18–25 | $2.50–3.50 |
| Li River cruise, Guilin to Yangshuo | ¥250–450 | $35–63 |
| Bamboo raft, shorter Yangshuo section | ¥100–200 | $14–28 |
| Didi from Guilin Liangjiang Airport to city | ¥50–80 | $6.95–11 |
Where to sleep & what it costs
| Tier | Per night | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Hostel dorm | ¥35–70 ($4.85–9.70) | Plentiful in Yangshuo's West Street area and along the Guilin riverfront |
| Budget hotel | ¥130–230 ($18–32) | Common in both Guilin's center and Yangshuo |
| Mid-range hotel | ¥230–450 ($32–63) | Riverside or karst-view guesthouses in Yangshuo are excellent value at this tier |
| Luxury | ¥650+ ($90+) | A handful of resort-style properties with karst-mountain views around Yangshuo |
Getting around
- From the airport
- Guilin Liangjiang International (KWL) is about 30–40 minutes from downtown Guilin. Didi runs ¥50–80; an airport shuttle bus also serves several downtown stops for less. Onward buses to Yangshuo run directly from the airport too, skipping downtown Guilin entirely if that's your first stop.
- Guilin to Yangshuo
- A direct bus takes about an hour and costs ¥18–25 from Guilin's bus stations; Didi or a private driver costs more but is faster and door-to-door. The classic four-hour Li River cruise between the two is scenic but pricier and slower — most travelers do it once, then bus back.
- Li River cruises & bamboo rafts
- The full Guilin–Yangshuo cruise (4 hours) shows the best-known karst scenery; a shorter bamboo raft trip on the Yulong River near Yangshuo is cheaper, more casual, and just as scenic for a shorter time commitment.
- Bike & e-scooter rental
- Yangshuo's countryside — rice paddies, smaller rivers, and villages between the peaks — is best explored by rented bike or e-scooter, widely available and cheap around West Street.
- On foot
- Both Guilin's riverside parks and Yangshuo's West Street are compact and walkable; the surrounding countryside is not, and needs a bike, scooter, or Didi.
Neighborhoods to stay in
- Yangshuo West Street
- The backpacker and traveler hub — cafés, guesthouses, and easy access to bike rentals and the Yulong River; the go-to first-timer base for most visitors.
- Guilin riverside (Zhengyang Road / Shan Hu-Rong Hu lakes)
- Central, walkable, and convenient if flying in and out of Guilin itself rather than basing in Yangshuo.
- Yangshuo countryside guesthouses
- Karst-view rooms outside the town center, quieter and more scenic but requiring a bike or scooter to get around.
- Near Guilin Liangjiang Airport
- Only useful for an early flight or late arrival — otherwise skip in favor of downtown Guilin or Yangshuo.
Tipping & etiquette
- Beer fish (啤酒鱼) is Yangshuo's signature dish and traditionally shared among a group — worth ordering with company rather than solo.
- Bamboo rafting on the Yulong River is genuinely a leisure activity here, not a whitewater sport — expect a slow, flat float rather than rapids.
- Haggling is expected at souvenir stalls and with unmetered raft/boat operators, but not in shops with posted prices.
- Avoid the topics of Taiwan, Tibet, and Xinjiang politics with new acquaintances — it's more awkward for your host than risky for you.
- Yangshuo's countryside is largely agricultural — respect working rice paddies and farmland when biking or walking through villages.
Safety & common scams
Guilin and Yangshuo are very safe for violent crime, including walking around at night in both towns. The real friction points for visitors are overpriced tourist-boat operators, road safety on rented scooters (traffic norms are looser than Western visitors expect), and the Great Firewall, rather than any personal danger.
Scams to know
- Unofficial 'cheap' Li River cruise tickets sold outside official counters — book through your hotel or an official ticket office to avoid overpriced or nonexistent tours.
- Unlicensed bamboo raft operators quoting inflated flat fares away from the official docks — use the marked ticket booths on the Yulong River instead.
- Overpriced 'silk' or 'jade' shops targeting river-cruise groups with commission-driven stops — treat included shopping stops on cheap package tours with skepticism.
- Unlicensed black cabs near the Guilin train station and airport quoting flat inflated fares — use Didi or the metered taxi queue instead.
Emergency numbers: 110 (police) · 120 (ambulance) · 119 (fire) — English-language support is limited outside Yangshuo's tourist businesses; your guesthouse can help translate if needed
Phone & internet
Get an eSIM (China Unicom/China Mobile via Airalo) before you land, or a physical tourist SIM at Guilin Liangjiang Airport. As everywhere in China, Google, WhatsApp, Instagram, and most Western apps are blocked by the Great Firewall, so set up a reputable VPN before you leave home — this matters more in Yangshuo than most Chinese destinations, since it's a common stop for longer-term travelers wanting to stay in touch with people back home. Alipay and WeChat both work without a VPN and double as payment and translation tools.
First-timer FAQs
Should I base myself in Guilin city or Yangshuo?
Yangshuo, for most travelers — it has the better guesthouses, the walkable West Street, and easier access to biking, rafting, and the karst countryside. Guilin city is more useful as an airport/train gateway and for the Reed Flute Cave, but doesn't need more than a night.
Is the Li River cruise worth the price?
The full four-hour Guilin-to-Yangshuo cruise (¥250–450) shows the most famous scenery, including the section on the ¥20 note, but it's slow and can feel touristy with large groups. A shorter, cheaper Yulong River bamboo raft trip near Yangshuo shows similar karst scenery for a fraction of the cost and time.
Do I need a visa?
Most Western passport holders need a visa arranged in advance through a Chinese embassy or consulate. Check current rules carefully, as visa-free transit programs are typically tied to specific gateway airports and don't reliably cover Guilin.
Is it safe to rent a scooter in Yangshuo?
Widely done, but go in with realistic expectations — local traffic norms are looser than in the West, roads outside town can be rough, and helmets aren't always provided by default, so ask for one. It's a great way to see the countryside if you're a comfortable rider.
How many days do I need?
Three to four days covers a river cruise or raft trip, a day of biking Yangshuo's countryside, and Reed Flute Cave back in Guilin, at a relaxed pace. It's also a common two- or three-night stop between Guangzhou/Shenzhen and the rest of southern China.